Miyagi and the Sea

Miyagi and the Sea

The bus took me to Noi Bai airport late one night time in November. The aircraft took off, Hanoi acquired smaller and smaller till it was only a assortment of brilliant dots. I fell asleep on the aircraft, nobody was sitting within the subsequent seat. The journey was simply me, departing from Hanoi, transiting at Incheon airport, Korea to hitch the group earlier than flying to Sendai, capital of Miyagi province in Tohoku area, Japan.

At the moment, I used to be additionally the editor of a small journey journal. I feel I’ve by no means traveled sufficient, written lengthy sufficient and deeply sufficient to think about myself an actual reporter, I’m simply an inexperienced author. That is the primary time I immediately went overseas to get writing supplies as a substitute of looking for data on the web and modifying the content material. Earlier than the journey, I didn't have a lot data about Miyagi. By means of the web, I knew this was the place that was closely affected by the double catastrophe of the earthquake and tsunami in 2011. That's all, I didn't anticipate an excessive amount of. I’ve been to Tokyo, Yokohama, Osaka, and Kyoto on journeys with different functions. These locations are all well-known and identified to many Vietnamese folks. I used to be fairly nervous, undecided what Miyagi would give me, wouldn’t it assist me full the article as required?

Native authorities representatives welcomed us very thoughtfully from the second we entered the nation. We went straight from the airport to the restaurant for lunch. Miyagi began passing by the automobile window with idyllic surroundings, typical small, sq. Japanese-style homes with white partitions and darkish brown roofs, Japanese indicators much like these within the anime I had seen, operating. On the highway is a stream of small, nimble vehicles speeding by. The sushi restaurant is clear and tidy. Sushi was shortly introduced out, filling our hungry stomachs.

From the second I put a bit of recent sushi in my mouth and slowly loved it, I knew it was a present from the ocean to Miyagi. Solely in locations like this subsequent to the ocean are you able to take pleasure in such recent seafood. Then I discovered that Miyagi has territorial waters within the Sanriku sea – the third largest fishing floor on this planet.

One afternoon, the automobile took us alongside the coastal highway of Onagawa city, one facet was the towering white cedar forest, the opposite was the ocean. We fortunately boarded the small fishing boat and headed out to sea. The web had simply been pulled up, heavy with oysters and sea squirts, Miyagi specialties. The fisherman opened the oyster shell and invited us to eat it immediately. This was the primary time I ate uncooked oysters recent from the ocean. Oyster meat is fatty, salty and tastes like the ocean. I really feel the scent of the ocean within the wind and within the air. For some purpose, the city jogged my memory of the ambiance in Yoshimoto Banana's novel “Sea Cowl”. The surroundings within the small fishing port could be very peaceable, I feel sooner or later I’ll return, spend the night time at a funds motel, wander round city and sit in entrance of the ocean, watching the ships for a very long time.

We went ashore, went to the restaurant and personally grilled oysters on charcoal, listening to the scorching sound and inhaling the aroma of grilled oysters.

Get pleasure from quite a lot of dishes all through the journey

Through the journey, I visited a couple of seafood processing services. I cannot point out the Japanese course of or manufacturing line as a result of too many individuals have written about it. The director of a processing facility led us to the window, regarded out to the ocean and mentioned in an optimistic tone: “In 2011, our manufacturing facility was over there. After the tsunami, it was destroyed. We moved the manufacturing facility deeper inland and began from scratch.” At one other processing firm, the corporate consultant pointed to a metallic detector and advised us: “After the double catastrophe, many individuals didn’t purchase our seafood anymore as a result of they had been afraid of radioactive substances, so that they I’ve this further machine. Each fish has to undergo the machine earlier than reaching the buyer.”

One morning we acquired up at 5 a.m. to go to the Kesennuma fish market. The our bodies of rat sharks and swordfish lie neatly on the bottom ready for folks to purchase them. I rigorously regarded on the calmness and orderliness of the fish market within the typical dry chilly of Japan and couldn't assist however evaluate it with the busy and noisy fish markets in Central Vietnam. These fish markets are very totally different, however I'm certain all fishermen all over the world are the identical, hoping to return safely after every journey to sea with ships filled with fish and shrimp. The fish market was closely destroyed in an incredible earthquake. The tour information advised us that at the moment the waves had reached the place the place we had been standing, practically 20 meters above the bottom. Quickly, I noticed the daylight of daybreak steadily rising from the ocean. The primary heat rays of the day started to unfold, just like the hope of the folks of Miyagi for the life forward.

Seagulls greet the daybreak on the fish market

After that, we visited the Ice Aquarium in Kesennuma metropolis. Often, we’ll see reside sea creatures swimming within the aquarium. However on the Ice Aquarium, we entered an fascinating house manufactured from clear ice blocks with frozen fish, squid, clams, sea squirts, and many others. The condensation of house and time at this aquarium brings a very new expertise. If you happen to can't stand the subzero chilly on the aquarium, you simply must press the button to exit.

I had a superb night time's sleep in Miyagi. Each day we moved to totally different localities, so I skilled many lodging of all kinds, from trendy to conventional. The primary morning I wakened, I opened the curtains of my trendy, comfy lodge room and noticed the poetic surroundings of Matsushima Bay spreading out earlier than my eyes.

(Picture: ©JNTO)

It's chilly and Japan will get darkish in a short time. One afternoon, once we stopped at an inn within the well-known Naruko onsen valley, it was already darkish and we couldn't see the encircling surroundings clearly. After soaking within the out of doors onsen, admiring the clear night time sky and inhaling the recent mountain air, I returned to my room. Listening to the sound of operating water exterior the window made me very curious. It was the stress-free sound of operating water that introduced me to a superb and refreshing sleep. Within the morning, I wakened early to search for the supply of the sound of water and realized that the inn was situated proper subsequent to the stream. It's been a very long time since I've lived so shut and absolutely with nature.

(Picture: ©JNTO)

As our automobile drove alongside the shoreline in Miyagi, someplace I nonetheless noticed traces of what was once densely populated areas. The Japanese-style sliding doorways, the partitions, the remaining courtyards… appear to inform the story of a really totally different life that when befell proper on this seemingly peaceable seaside. A tour information pointed to a home situated alone on a excessive hill, saying that it was the one home that prevented the tsunami that 12 months. Some folks determined to depart, however many others started to return to rebuild Miyagi. On the sea mouth, a breakwater has shaped. Regardless that we will't return to the way in which it was, life nonetheless goes on.

Throughout my brief journey to Miyagi, I additionally visited many historic websites, landscapes, and ate many different scrumptious dishes, however I paid particular consideration to issues intently associated to water and the ocean. I feel the ocean offers folks so much and may also take every part away. The story about Miyagi and the ocean gave me so much to consider, past my easy expectations of writing materials that 12 months. I feel touring doesn’t imply checking in to probably the most lovely, most spectacular, fascinating or well-known locations. I all the time consider that touring is a technique of going and experiencing. It’s a journey the place the thoughts experiences and grows.

I’m now not {a magazine} editor. My life has modified so much. I feel Miyagi is similar, the ocean is similar. At some point, I’ll return to Miyagi, to the ocean. And, I’ll undoubtedly write a brand new story.

– Linh Tru –

*Some pictures offered by the author

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