Travel back in time along the ancient roads of Nagano Prefecture
Many people visited Nagano Prefecture during the Edo period (1603-1867), not only tourists but also feudal lords, monks, and even ukiyo-e artists looking for inspiration. On this trip, you will hike the Nakasendo route, one of the main routes connecting Kyoto and Edo (now Tokyo), as well as the spiritual trails of Mount Ontake and Togakushi, and spend the night in ancient towns and at a temple. As you enjoy the beautiful natural scenery, you will feel like you have traveled back in time to the Edo period.
DAY 1
Hiking along the historic Nakasendo route
From Nagoya, take a train and bus to the starting point of the hike, Magome. The road that stretches between the towns of Magome and Tsumago is one of the most famous stretches of the Nakasendo route, a historic highway that was built during the Edo period (1603-1868). Along the trail, you can see wooden townscapes, stone statues and shrines, waterfalls and tranquil streams – all largely unchanged since the heyday of the trail. If you hire a local English-speaking guide, they can tell you about the area as you explore. Traditional climbing gear such as kasa hats and hinoki cypress walking sticks are also available for rent. Halfway to Tsumago, you’ll stop at an old farmhouse with an irori fireplace for a traditional bento box of kuri-okowa (rice and roasted chestnuts) for lunch. In the late afternoon, you will depart from Tsumago to your accommodation in Kiso Fukushima. Kiso Fukushima is another old town along the Nakasendo route. Here, enjoy a traditional Japanese hot spring inn facing the trail.
DAY 2
Purify your body and mind with Waterfall Meditation at Mt. Ontake
On the second day, you will take a detour from Nakasendo and visit an important spiritual destination that has attracted mountain ascetics for over a thousand years: Mount Ontake. You will hike along the Ontake Kodo trail with an English-speaking guide. After checking out of your hotel in the morning, you will take a bus to Tanohara, the 7th station of the Ontake Kodo (2,180 m), where you can enjoy a great view of Mount Ontake at 3,067 m. (If the weather is not favorable, we will skip Tanohara and visit Ontake Satomiya Shrine.) From there, you will take a bus to Omata Sansha Shrine and start trekking through the forest. You will dress in traditional mountain ascetic clothing and hike along the forest trail, visiting 2 waterfalls and several small shrines. At the end of the trail is Kiyotaki Falls, where you will be guided through takigyō (waterfall meditation) and experience it for yourself. This is one of the rituals that ascetic monks would perform to purify their body and mind before entering Mount Ontake.
Next, you’ll head to a nearby lodge for lunch. You’ll get to experience eating a meal not unlike that of the mountain hermits. They eat a strict plant-based diet, but the lodges make slight adjustments to make their meals more accessible to non-ascetic palates. Your guide can review the different ingredients and dishes that make up your meal. After lunch, you’ll catch a bus to your accommodation in Kamisuwa Onsen. You’ll spend the night at a local onsen hotel on the shores of Lake Suwa, where you’ll have a welcome dinner featuring a wealth of local and seasonal produce.
DAY 3
Kayaking on Lake Suwa – Made famous by the works of Hiroshige and Hokusai
The Lake Suwa area has been famous for its important crossroads since the Edo period and has thrived due to the heavy traffic here. On this day, you will go on an adventure and explore the history and culture of the area.
After checking out in the morning, your guide will review the day’s itinerary. Then, you’ll head out on a kayaking trip, where you’ll enjoy stunning views of Lake Suwa and Mount Fuji, which inspired artists Hokusai and Hiroshige.
For lunch, you’ll catch a tour bus to a restaurant serving what many consider to be one of Japan’s soul foods – unagi (grilled eel). After lunch, you’ll catch another bus to Shimosuwa, a town where two historic roads once crossed. First on the tour, you’ll visit Suwa Taisha – one of the oldest shrines in Japan, with a Kiyari performance.
Next you’ll stop at Iwanamike, the town’s former main inn (or honjin) for matcha tea and Japanese wagashi sweets in the garden.
Your final activity will be in the neighboring town of Kamisuwa, a 15-minute bus ride away, where you will visit the Miyasaka Sake Brewery. Established in the Edo period, it has been producing sake for hundreds of years and is known throughout Japan under the Masumi brand. At the brewery, you will have the opportunity to taste sake while listening to an introduction from the head brewer. Finally, you will catch a bus from Suwa to your next accommodation in Hakuba.
DAY 4
Harvesting rice and working with farmers in Hakuba
After breakfast at your accommodation, we will head to the rice fields with our guide for a day of sightseeing. They will tell you about the area’s yukigata (snow formations) tradition and their importance to local farmers, as well as the basics of rice farming in Japan. For a hands-on rice harvesting experience, you can even use a traditional kama scythe to cut and dry the rice.
For lunch, you will cook your own hotpot outdoors using rice and local vegetables under the supervision of farmers. In case of rain, the rice harvest will be replaced by a visit to a local museum, where you will cook your own hotpot indoors. In the afternoon, take some time to relax. Your guide will introduce some activities in Hakuba for those interested.
For dinner, enjoy a traditional charcoal-grilled robatayaki meal featuring local produce and fresh seafood from the Sea of Japan in a renovated warehouse. While you enjoy your meal, a storyteller will immerse you in local folk tales. Here, you can enjoy the atmosphere of an old town located along the Chikuni Kaido, which served as a trade route connecting Japan’s mountainous regions to the Sea of Japan.
DAY 5
Hiking the Togakushi Kodo Trail – A Habitat of Mountain Ascetics and Ninja
After breakfast at your accommodation and a brief introduction from your guide, you will take a bus to the spiritual Mount Togakushi. At the foot of Mount Togakushi are five shrines that combine to form the Togakushi Shrine: Okusha, Chūsha, Hōkōsha, Kuzuryūsha and Hinomikosha. They are connected by the Togakushi Trail, which is frequented by ascetics and pilgrims. You will walk along this historic and spiritual trail to enjoy the tranquil atmosphere of Togakushi with all your senses.
Togakushi soba is one of Japan’s three famous soba varieties, so no trip here would be complete without trying it yourself. For lunch, enjoy the delicate flavor of soba noodles made with local buckwheat flour and Togakushi spring water.
After a walk through the forest and lunch, you will experience a performance of Togakure Ninpo, a form of ninja martial arts, developed over 800 years ago in Togakushi, at the Togakushi Ninja Museum and Ninja Trick Home.
DAY 6
Seeking Enlightenment at the 1,400-Year-Old Zenkoji Temple
For those willing to wake up a little early, you can watch the morning ceremony at Zenkoji Temple and then join in the zazen meditation. First, your guide will take you to the temple to witness the ceremony that has been held daily for hundreds of years. Then, you will enter Daikanjin Temple and practice zazen with the guidance of one of the temple’s monks. During the meditation, you will have the opportunity to recharge yourself after a long and rewarding tour of central Japan.
Afterwards, you will return to the temple inn and enjoy a hearty shoujin breakfast. After a brief introduction from your guide, you will board the Hokuriku bullet train towards Tokyo as you say goodbye to the beautiful land of Nagano.
The contents of this article are for reference only when you plan your own travel and do not apply to package tours. Travelers will have to book their own accommodation, transportation, tour guides and all other services.